Saturday, October 27, 2007

How to Make Inexpensive Painting Panels

"Hostess Cupcakes (Chocolate)", Oil on Panel, 6x6 inches
Jerry Lebo, 2007

You may have noticed that I have been painting a lot of small paintings on 6x6 panels lately. In fact, I think I am getting a bit addicted to this size. It lends itself well to small still life and landscape work--and it is the type of painting that I recommend you work with if you are just starting out painting, or need to get warmed up. It usually takes me 3-5 hours to finish one of these small paintings--but it can take longer. In the case of "Hostess Cupcakes (Chocolate)" I struggled for quite a while over three days, and finally finished it last night. It may be the last of my "Bite Me" series, as I think I am ready for a new challenge. Although, I don't think it is the end of the 6x6 inch format--so I thought I would show you how I make the panels I use for these types of paintings.

Let me start with a disclaimer. There are a lot of way to make art panels--and I think I have tried most of them over the years. Just go to the art store and you will see all the various technologies. In my mind (and I do not make any money for saying it), SourceTek makes the best panels on the market today. They also happen to be the most expensive--a 6x6 is around $10. If you are selling your paintings for $100--then this is simply not affordable. On the other hand, if you sell you paintings for $1000--or even $300--then you might want to try these. The panels I use cost around $0.35 each to make.

The process starts with a 24x36 sheet of 3/16" tempered Masonite. I buy mine at Home Depot, but I am sure they have this stuff at most hardware stores. Technically, this size is a half sheet--as most places will typically sell it in larger full sheets. There are also different thicknesses--but for small panels there is not much reason to buy it thicker--it just makes the panels heavier. I have used 3/16" masonite for up to 12x12 inch panels. If you want to paint large format paintings on Masonite, there are two problems. First the cost goes up rapidly, and thus canvas becomes more cost-effective. Second, the gesso will warp the sheets as it dries if the panel is large (a problem that can be overcome by using thicker sheets or combining several sheets with glue). In any case, I recommend you use 3/16" mainly for smaller paintings.

I know there are artists who will only paint on panels, even in large sizes. If you want to read more, there is an article in this month's "American Artist, Oil Painting Highlights" magazine titled, "Ask the Right Questions about Hardboard". The artist paints in sizes as large as 30"x40" on Masonite, and recommends that artists use premium untempered, wet/dry process boards. You'll have to read the article to get the details, but I was not clear after reading it why these are preferred--but I think it makes a difference in larger formats. The process is quite elaborate to make such panels.



Anyway, here is the sheet of Masonite ready to go. You will need a good t-square and pencil or marker to get started. It is important to measure very carefully when making small panels, since a little error will make a big difference in the final panel. You can never get it perfect, but you mainly want to make sure the panel is square--if it is not, you should not use it.



Here I was planning only to make eight panels, so I have marked out two lines 6 inches from one end. I then come across and mark three lines 6 inches across down the other side. Use the edge and t-square to make sure you are square to the edges and the panels will be square. If you want to check if they are square--measure the diagonal across each panel--it should be the same distance from opposite corners. If not, the panel is not square--and you need to re-measure (that is why you might want to use a pencil).

Here is what it looks like ready to cut.

And, here is my magic cutting device--a circular saw I bought at Sears a couple of years ago on sale. It cost around $25 and comes in very handy. If you have access to a table saw, I would highly recommend you use it instead of any handheld saw to cut your panels. It is much more accurate. But, if you are careful, a circular saw works just fine. I have also tried a jigsaw and handsaw, neither of which I recommend. For some reason a jigsaw and/or handsaw do not work very well for me--as they tend to create small variations in the edge quality and is easy to get off-line.



So there they are, eight freshly cut panels. The next step is important--sanding the edges and surface. I don't think it matters what type of sandpaper you use--both a medium or fine weight works just fine. I start by sanding the edges to remove all the loose and hanging pieces--then I put a very light sanding on the tempered side of the board (the smooth side), which is the side to which I will be applying gesso. Below is a picture of the pre-sanded and sanded panels. On the left below is a pre-sanded panel, and on the right is a panel after sanding and ready for gesso. The difference should be apparent.



I like to use acrylic gesso, which I apply with a sponge or regular brush. You can use oil-based gesso, but it takes several days to dry--and I do not see much advantage. You use oil paints (or acrylic) on an acrylic gesso--and it dries fast--so why use oil? One word of caution however, gesso is very hard to get off your hands, so I recommend latex gloves or a wet paper towel to clean up quickly.



I start by applying a small bit to the center of the panel and working out from there. If you get too much on the panel, either move it over to the next panel--or simply wipe the brush on the newspaper--which you should definitely put down to protect whatever you are painting on. gesso is very hard to get off of any surface!



After putting a single coat on all panels, I wait 5-10 minutes and come back and put a second coat on each. I think you can probably get away with a single coat, but the brush marks tend to be strong-and a second coat makes a much smoother surface. In fact, if you like a very smooth surface, let the second coat dry a couple of hours--and apply more coats until you are happy. The first coat will dry quickly (1/2 hour), but subsequent coats will take 1-2 hours each.



So there you go, eight fresh panels read for painting. You will need to wait a minimum of 1-2 hours before painting on the panels--but preferably overnight. Clean up any excess that is on the edges, since this will be difficult to remove later. Also, you might want to shift the panels on the newspaper a bit, otherwise they may stick after drying.

So, how much does it costs? The sheet of masonite costs around $8, the gesso around $7 per bottle, and the rest is nominal--assuming you have a t-square and saw. Even if you don't, it might be worth the investment. I can make 20 panels from a sheet of Masonite, and the gesso last for about five sheets. So these panels end up costing around $0.35 each. A bit cheaper than the store bought version. I started making these types of panels several years ago after noticing that Artisan, the art store I haunt when I am in Santa Fe, NM, sells the pre-cut Masonite in their store. It proved to be quick and inexpensive for small paintings. You may find pre-cut panels at your own art store. The price at Artisan is around $1.20 per 6x6 panel--so it is a bit more expensive to buy them pre-cut--but also a bit faster.

Hope you find that useful. Now you cannot complain you have nothing to paint on. You can make these panels quickly and easily in your own studio--for little cost. I like to make various sizes and have them ready. There is nothing I hate more than being ready to paint and not having anything at hand. Yes, you can always stretch a canvas or go buy a ready made panel or canvas from the art store. But, by the time you go there and back, I can make eight panels in my garage--and be painting in the studio. So buy some gesso and Masonite and have it ready in your garage--it is a time saver.

So, there you go. No excuses. Make a small panel and go to your studio and start painting.

All the best, sixtyminuteartist.


Nat had made some comments on tempered vs. un-tempered hardboard--which I wanted to follow up on. I found this link (story of hardboard) which gives a good technical overview (which even I can understand) on hardboards. Bottom line, tempered is okay.

175 comments:

Mary Ann Archibald said...

Wonderful post. I have my panels cut at the hardware store, I don't have a big round saw and when I use my hand saw it is very difficult to get an even size.
I really appreciate this post. Good info.
Sincerely,
Mary Ann

Jet said...

Masonite is what I am planning on using when I use up my scrap plywood. Sometimes I sand the gesso when it is dry and then apply more coats. nice cupcakes.

Melissa E. Keyes said...

Am enjoying your blog! For just about anything I get on my hands, in this case would be gesso, I find that cooking oil, any, works great. Canola, olive, soy, mixed, doesn't matter.

sixtyminuteartist said...

Jet, thanks for the comment. I have used scrap wood, including plywood (a bit heavy) and paneling (I found some mahogany once), it just takes a few more coats of gesso to get is smooth. If you can get the surface you want--most woods will work--assuming they are stable and won't naturally decay over time. Jerry

sixtyminuteartist said...

Melissa e., I would worry a bit about using cooking oils, as they are organic they are likely to decay over time. Oil paints are linseed-based, but that is the reason you cannot use them directly on paper or without first putting a prime down on any natural surface--they will eventually interact and decay the surface. I would recommend you first look at "The Artist's Handbook" (might be able to get it at the library). This book is in about the 20th edition, and has been around forever--I have two copies. This is a great book for finding out what works and what doesn't with regard to art materials. Jerry

hildA said...

very useful information, it will probably convince me to try some painting (I'm an assemblage artist) so that I can incorporate it with my other work.
One detail I was thinking about the panel cutting : When measuring the panels to be cut, take in consideration the thickness of the circular saw when cutting the panels, it isn't that much, but still on small formats it might matter

Nat said...

As an alternative, Dick Blick has pretty good pricing on Ampersand pre-gessoed hardboard-- half the price of Utrecht, and I generally consider Utrecht pretty competitive. A four pack of 6x6 boards is $3.79 (of course you have to factor in shipping, so best buy in bulk). I used to be a bit more gung-ho about cutting up boards myself, but too many errant cuts and smoke detectors going off because of dust have discouraged me.

Nat said...

Tempered vs. Untempered hardboards- Keith Halonen says here that it's important to use untempered hardboard/Masonite. Tempered apparently has additional resins. I've heard before that tempered is more like to cause the gesso to separate from the board or cause stains to seep through the gesso. Don't know much tho'.

sixtyminuteartist said...

Nat, thanks for the advice. I love dickblick for its low prices, but, as you say, the shipping is a killer. Also, I always seem to run out just at the wrong time--I went use my self-service approach since it allows "just-in-time" garage to studio availability in any size I want. But, yes, it is a pain if you don't have a good saw--preferably a table saw. I will look into the tempered vs. untempered issue and follow up in the posting. Jerry

WLM Artist said...

Just a small recommendation following-
I used to prepare only one kind of surface for panels, and that was the "traditional gesso" (meaning whiting, gypsum and rabbitskin glue) (search for books by Max Doerner and Cennino Cennini).
But I've since started using the non-traditional gesso (meaning acrylic gesso) on occasions when I want something different from my preferred surface, which is linen on panel.
I just wanted to throw in some very minor comments to maybe try a little differently.
First, a minor point perhaps, but, I would prefer to use a cheap bristle brush 2 or 2 1/2 inches wide, the kind you get at a hardware store, rather than the sponge brush (personally for me, I prefer that, even for housepainting, it makes you feel more like an artist doesn't it?)
Also, I build up 3, 4, or 5 coats, maybe even more, because I apply it very thinly. And I scrub it in vigourously, to make thin "veils" of paint. Doing it thin, and scrubbing it, gets an uneven, coarse, layer, but you keep building it up and eventually it gets smoother and ends up with more satisfying results. I find it so at any rate.
Also by keeping the gesso very thin, if your doing several panels, say like 8 as in the example, then you can go back right away to put on the additional coat. Since it's thin it dries very fast.
Also, I keep in mind Cennini's idea of gesso grosso and gesso sottile. Meaning, in the first layers you do it coarse, "dry brush" and then the upper layers get finer, thinned with a bit of water.
It's probably not a better way, but it's the way that I've come to like to do it.

Melissa E. Keyes said...

LOL! I meant for cleaning your hands!--"For just about anything I get on my hands, in this case would be gesso,,,"

I am fussy and traditional with art materials, my Ralph Mayer is one of my more well read books..

sixtyminuteartist said...

Melissa e., yes, cleaning your hands! Sorry, I thought you were experimenting with supports. I was quite excited, in fact. Olive oil sounds like a lot of fun. Jerry

Carol Hadfield said...

Yes. I started out with good old South African masonite. The hardware store cut it up for me and I primed it with good old South African Acrylic household paint and it works like a dream, only thing is that I prefer painting on the rough side and not the smooth! Have since started painting on bought boxed canvas and find it rather waxy! I think they maybe are made in China? I may be going back to my masonite. My framer boxed a couple of portraits for me and they have turned out looking really great.

Bill Sharp said...

I find it faster to gesso the whole panel and cut it on the table saw to whatever size I need later. Another nice thing about using panels like this is that you can crop a finished painting on the table saw : )

sixtyminuteartist said...

Bill, I used to do this too--but the edges were getting torn up pretty bad--and I had to go back and sand and re-gesso the edges. I think this is partly due to not having a table saw--and also using tempered boards. But, I like this idea if you can get the edges nice. I guess that goes back to using a table saw and sharp blade as much as anything. Thanks for your comment.

Jerry

Anonymous said...

Just wondering how to frame these panels? I've not worked on them before and am wondering if there is a specific way that they need to be framed?

Thanks!
Liz

Diane Hoeptner (hep-ner) said...

GREAT information and wonderfully illustrated, thanks VERY much!!

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Daroo said...

I like your Blog and your reasons for creating it.

My day job makes it hard for me to find the time to paint too so I'll often create a bunch of painting panels until they start collecting in piles around my studio -- somehow, this seems to help me overcome creative inertia and just start painting.

I have a couple different methods:
I use masonite -- untempered if I can find it and I'll use acrylic gesso or I'll use Williamsburg lead oil ground -- which I prefer as a working surface. I also use Baltic birch plywood, often times just covering this with shellac -- it creates a nice unifying warm ground and is great for plein air painting (as it reduces glare from the sun vs. a bright white panel). The cheapest method for quick studies is using museum board (also shellac-ed). Lastly I've started using gatorfoam primed like I would with masonite. It can be cut on the table saw, is light weight and won't warp. I've also glued rolled canvas to both the plywood and gatorfoam panels using Miracle Muck -- but it is more labor intensive and I debate if it might not be better to buy the Sourcetek or Wind River Arts panels.

As to you're tear out problem: make sure you have a plywood cutting blade on your saw -- It should have a lot of little teeth as opposed to fewer bigger teeth (and the kerf is thinner) I think masonite tends to dull saw blades quicker than plywood. Also you might try taping up your cut lines with painter's masking tape or prescoring the line with a blade or both.

BMoon said...

Great description of your hardboard prep process. Thanks so much. I paint on wood too and just love it. Anything else (canvas, paper...) seems wimpy in comparison.

One thing I have found that works great for me is 4ml plastic, rather than newspapers. The gesso won't stick to it at all, and of course its reuseable.

I save large pieces of cardboard (stoves, fridges, etc.) and cover them with 4ml plastic with tape on the underside. Whenever i have a messy project I just whip one of my cardboards out....instant work surface.

Blessings
Joanie
www.artforthesoulofit.com

Robin Neudorfer said...

I have actually taken a sharp mat knife to masonite. After a good many scores along a straight edge, you can "snap" the board and clean up the edge with sandpaper. I find it a decent alternative to a circular saw, which many people do not have. Edges are not beautiful as with the store bought brand, but if you are doing many "starts", it is an economical way to work on board.

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