Sunday, November 11, 2007

How to Build Low-Cost Frames for your Paintings

"America's Favorite Breakfast", Oil on Panel, 6x6 inches
Jerry Lebo, 2007


($100 . Click here to purchase).


I have started work on my latest series of paintings, which will be titled "America's Favorites". The idea has been lurking in the back of my mind for the last few weeks--and "Apple Pie Slice" served as a nice transitional piece. The idea for the series is to take objects from everyday life that are quintessentially American--and do a series of small paintings. Apple Pie is pretty obvious, but I am actually looking for some of the more subtle items that seem to creep into our lives and become standard American fare before we even realize it. To me, the bagel and cream cheese is a good example--it is not as obvious as apple pie or, say, bacon and eggs--yet it is now almost a standard breakfast for Americans. Stay tuned to see what I find next--I think you will be surprised.

Okay, so back to the post at hand. I have been promising to tell you how to make a low-cost frame for your paintings. As I said the other day, I personally like to send my paintings out "ready to hang" and have been offering a simple pine box frame with my Ebay (now Etsy) sales--for an additional charge of $10. So, let me show you have I make them.

The method I will demonstrate will work for a 3/16th inch panel, but the principles can be adapted to fit just about any thickness or type of painting. At the end of the post, I will show you how to adapt the design so you can use it for a painting on stretched canvas, for example.

The basic process starts with two pieces of lumber, which you can either buy ready made--or make from scrap or basic lumber stock (for example, 1x8 lumber). If you build them from stock, you will minimally need a table saw--but also preferably a router to cut a "round-over" on the front edge of the frame. You will see what I mean in a second. I have been using ready made lumber lately to save time--so let me show you that approach first.

The process starts with two pieces of store bought molding. I buy mine at Home Depot in the trim section--but I am sure you can get them at most hardware or lumber yards--if you are doing custom cuts--then you would make these from your stock.

The first piece is a standard piece of rectangular molding--11/16" by 7/16". The second piece is called "screen pine" and has a tapered (rounded over) edge--which probably comes in various widths. For my purposes, I am using a 3/4 inch width--which I think is standard.


The first step is to glue these pieces together using wood glue along the short side of the rectangular stock. I start by putting a bead of glue on the square stock (not the screen pine)--and then spread it with my finger. You will need to keep some wet paper towels around to wipe off your fingers and excess glue.


Once you have the glue spread evenly on one side, you want to clamp your screen pine (or rounded over stock). I use standard "c-clamps" from the hardware store. But I have also used vise grip pliers--in a pinch. Anything that will hold tightly as the glue dries. Be careful not to over tighten the clamps or you may leave tool marks on the wood that will be hard to get out later. When clamping the wood, I usually start at one end and work my way to the other. I may seem easier to clamp the two ends first, but this usually causes problems and warping in the middle.

Here is a picture of the pieces of wood clamped together. I usually put one clamp every 10-12 inches to get a good tight fit. For this eight foot piece--I used eight clamps. After all the clamps are tightened, go back and wipe off any excess glue. Especially if you plan to stain or paint the frame--since the glue with keep these material from adhering later on.



Here is a side view of the pieces after the glue has dried. You can see--it is basically a rectangular piece of word with a flatter piece glued to the side.

Now comes the fun part--cutting the miters. For this purpose, I highly recommend a good miter saw. This is mine, which I bought 15 years ago for around $100. I was just down at Home Depot yesterday--and you can still get a decent one for around $100. This one has saved me thousands of dollars in framing costs over the years. I suppose you could do this with a miter box, but I don't recommend it.



You want to take your time when measuring the cuts. I like to have a slight offset from the front edge of the frame to the edge of the panel of around 1/8th inch. Also, my panels (which I showed you how to make a couple of posts ago) are not always perfectly six inches. Thus, I usually use the painting itself as the guide when measuring. You want to measure against the top edge of the stock (along the raised edge)--not the bottom or outside. You see I have put the panel right up against where I want to measure--and I mark the stock to the width of the panel plus 1/4 inch (1/8 for each side of the panel) to get my offset. Then cut away.



After cutting your miters, I recommend you layout the frame to make sure it fits together. Many times I have found that I have overcut--or missed one of the cuts--and the frame is not square. Better to find out while you still have the saw out--then when you are trying to glue the frame.

Once the frame seems to have a good fit, I use a very simple tool that I love--the band clamp. You can get one of these at the hardware store when you get your wood--they are a must have for framers. I have tried corner clamps--but this device works much better. I glue both side of each corner--and then wipe off the excess glue that squeezes out after I tighten the clamp.



Once the glue is dry, I give the frame a good sanding with a medium weight sandpaper--to get rid of any imperfections or marks. I then will attach framing hooks and wire to the inside of frame. If you put them into the back--the picture will not hang flush to the wall. That is another reason I like this type of box frame--it allows interior mounting of the wire--not all frame designs do.

I mentioned that this design can be used for stretched canvas or linen. Here is a frame I built 15 years ago. I have applied a stain--but the design is the same--only the measurements differ. Essentially it is a back support--with a side piece that has been rounded off. I made these frames from 1x8 pieces of lumber in a friend's woodshop back in the early 1990s for a show I was having. I made 40 frames for around $4 each!

Mounting stretched paintings is a bit different than with panels--and is actually a bit easier. I simply used a wood screw and drill a pilot hole--then set the screw through the frame and into the stretcher bar.



So this is how this simple panel frame looks after it has dried--and the picture is mounted. You can see the 1/8 inch offset on each side, as well as the flush hanging. I think it looks nice, given the cost. I mount the panel into the frame using double-side removable mounting tape (you can get this at craft, art, or framing stores). You can use the permanent mounting tape--which holds a bit better--if you don't imagine changing the frame in the future. I use removable, since I am not sure if my collectors will stick with the frame over the years.

So how much does it costs? I went out yesterday and bought 24 feet of screen pine and rectangular stock for around $18. That is enough, if you measure and cut carefully, for around nine frames. I usually make a mistake that means I lose a few pieces, but let's say a minimum of 6 frames--that works out to $3 per frame per 6x6 panels. It takes about one hour to make a frame--not counting the time you are waiting for glue to dry. But you can save time by making a dozen or so at at a time. They look nice--and people appreciate having a ready to hang piece arrive in the mail.

Okay, there you go--my long promised tutorial on making a simple pine frame. However, don't go a make one right away--you need to go to the studio first and make a painting. Don't get distracted by frame making--that will come later--think of it as the reward for selling a painting.

All the best, sixtyminuteartist.

88 comments:

redredday said...

hi Jerry, it looks great! you are so awesome for doing this post! and just because people asked for it. i would have said no, too busy, man. go google it. ;). but i think it would be hard to find such a simple, clear tutorial as what you have here. i even have a book on framing but have yet to be inspired to make anything from it because everything just looks too complicated. but yours, i think i can do. it's perfect because i actually been trying to find box frames but so hard to find the right size and frame thickness. so thank you thank you!

looking forward to see more of America's Favorites...your bagel painting makes me want to have a bagel right now...with a lot of cream cheese, yes...mmmm...

p.s. i really like what you said in a previous post about not feeling like you have to sell your work. was a bit surprised to hear it since it seems like everyone sees it as an indication of success as an artist.

Marsha Stopa said...

Hey Jerry,
Thanks for this. Great stuff! Being a non-woodworker, I could use just a tad more explanation on how making a frame for stretched canvas differs. I have dozens of canvases to paint before I get to panels.

Perhaps the following question is an idea for another post: How do you catalog and use your reference photos? I took nearly 1000 photos on my recent trip to the Blue Ridge Mountains and I'm trying to come up with a good system. Do you use any photo indexing software? I'm assuming you crop, adjust contrast etc. in PhotoShop before you print. I'm sure this will sound like a silly question, but what size do you typically print your reference photos -- the same size you intend to paint, larger or smaller?

Any guidance would be helpful! Thank you for all the time you spend -- your advice is so helpful and encouraging.

Best, Marsha

sixtyminuteartist said...

Mien, Thanks for your comment--let me know how your frame-making turns out. Following up on my previous post, selling your art has a lot of potential downsides--and is definitly not a sign of artistic success. I think this has been proved throughout art history, the most successfully commercial artist often end up lost to the history books. No all, but most. The key is to remember, whatever happens on the business side, the important relationship is the relationship you have with you own artistic process. If you lose that connection, no amount of commerical success will even fill the hole. Of course, everyone likes to sell--but don't mistake a sale with people understanding you or your art. People buy art for many reasons, and it is usually not the reason that the artist would like to think.

Jerry

Nat said...

For the shameless craftless among us, I've recently gotten some "framecloseout.com" frames. You have to buy $50+, they send you random styles, and you're getting conventional frames that are better suited to panels or paper than canvases. That being said, I got 30 5x7 frames for $50-- as always, you have to be philosophical about shipping. You certainly aren't guaranteed your favorite styles, but a can of black enamel will help you with the ones you can't bear. I was pretty happy.

sixtyminuteartist said...

Nat, thanks for that information. Sounds like a good alternative for those who don't want to make their own--but I noticed that they don't have 6x6s. Anyway, I may try it someday--it takes less time for sure!

One thing I didn't mention about the box frame I use, which is one of the main benefits, is the fact that it doesn't have a rabbet--which I always find annoying--especially for small paintings. I have several nice 8x10 frames in my studio, but they have 1/4+ inch rabbets all around. If you put a small painting in a frame with a big rabbet, you can lose 1/2 inch of the painting under the rabbett. Probably only me that finds that annoying, but drives me nuts!

Jerry

FYI, the address is actually "framecloseouts" (with an "s").

Cindy said...

Ah! if only i had opposable thumbs ... I could make my own then. When I took wood shop I routinely sanded off pieces of my fingers, so having someone else do this is better then me working and typing with 4 or 5 bandaids on my fingers. The IT folks get sooo annoyed with blood on their keyboards!

-informative post as always, I still owe you a response to that email!
Cindy

Charley Parker said...

Good article. Thanks.

The one weak point seems to be the mounting of the actual panel in the frame with double-sided tape. Could you go into more detail about this, and have you tried alternative methods?

sixtyminuteartist said...

Hi Charley, thanks for your comment. Double-sided tape will not work. Perhaps I did not make this clear--apologies. The back of masonite can be relatively rough--and regular tape or normal double sided tape will not work. What I use is a product made by 3M that is foamy. It is called, "3M Foam Mounting Double-Sided Tape". It comes in permanent and removable version. The permanent version is like nails--and works great--so don't need a lot. The removable version works--but you need to use a bit more of it as the bond is not as stong. It comes in pretty wide roles, so I cut it in half to long way so that is fits under the edge of the panel, but you can't see it. I run a strip for at least 3/4 of the length under each side of the panel. They also make it the removable version as "squares" which also works--I use two half squares per panel side--so four squares cut in half. Press down hard on the panel and it should hold pretty well. The smoother the back of the panel, the better it seems to hold.

hope that helps,
Jerry

redredday said...

hey Jerry, thanks for the book recommendation. i checked it out yesterday and already i know it will be a good read just from looking at the images of the work. so again, you are just great. :).

re: your comment above about selling/buyers - i am very intrigued by perhaps your own experience (or just in general) with people who buy art for reasons other than what artists would hope for. find what you said about 'not mistaking a sale for people understanding you or your art' to be so poignant.

Marsha Stopa said...

There was an online discussion last week on Painters Keys http://clicks.robertgenn.com/why-buy.php
that was interesting. Which highlights once again that we have to make art for our own reasons, without outside validation that determines if we are "successful."

Hope you got my email, Jerry, that I answered my own question about making the frames for stretched canvas.

gwadzilla said...

great DIY piece

honestly

still trying to dig up those pictures
but I do not need to issue orders to my wife
I made the request
and I am afraid to do more
she already does so much

these frames are cool

I have an idea for my project

we will talk later

again
very cool DIY piece

Amy said...

Jerry, I have been stalking your blog for some time now. I love your work. At some point when I find some free time (haha) I am going to take some art classes and see what I can come up with in 60 minutes. I love your tips and advice. And I really appreciate your framing tutorial. Thank-you. Keep up the good work, it is so inspiring to me.

StephanieCHC said...

Hi Jerry, I work for a framing company and we came across your blog, and think that this is an excellent instructional post. Have you ever considered posting a video on You Tube about making a frame? There isn't much available for creating a frame, and your guide would very useful. Thanks for the tips!

Steven said...

Great tute! I was just reading the other day about how you should make an effort to put your work in a frame for your clients... mostly b/c they never frame it if you just give them the art.

So, I gave a friend a painting last week and I can totally see how that can happen. All my stuff will NOW be framed going forward. And this little DIY will probably be the basis for that declaration.

Woot! Thanks for the great blog entries.

Sweepy said...

Holy Moly! This was like finding a buried treasure. I just did about half a dozen different searches trying to find *any* instruction as to how to frame paintings, never mind one as thorough and do-able as this one.

I have a BFA in painting and while I really do feel like I got a great education, it was lacking in this type of practical instruction as far as what to do with your work after you were done. You can't really pursue selling it or showing it if you can't afford to have it framed and they don't teach you how to do it yourself! So this was a God-send, thank you SO much.

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signs of heart attack said...

Hi guys the work you are doing with this site is excellent,it caught my eye,I think the site is full of good and interesting notes about building frames for paintings

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